Ondes progressives

In transverse waves, particles displace perpendicular to wave propagation direction, like ripples on water or guitar string vibrations. In longitudinal waves, particles move parallel to propagation in back-and-forth motion, such as sound waves in air or water. Both types transfer energy without bulk matter movement.

Mechanical waves are governed by Newton's laws and depend on a medium—a substance that produces elastic restoring force when deformed. Water, air, and solids all serve as media for different wave types. Without a medium to deform and restore, mechanical wave propagation cannot occur.

Sound waves in fluids like air and water must be longitudinal because fluids lack appreciable shear strength. In solids, sound waves can be both longitudinal and transverse, with each component propagating at different speeds. Earthquake waves similarly exhibit both types of motion beneath Earth's surface.

During wave motion, both energy and momentum transfer with the wave's propagation through the medium. However, the medium's mass oscillates around an equilibrium point rather than moving with the wave itself. This distinction separates wave motion from bulk matter transport.

Water waves, sound waves, and seismic waves are primary examples of mechanical waves. Water waves propagate through water, sound waves typically through air but also through water, and seismic waves travel through Earth's layers. Each requires its specific medium and exhibits characteristic propagation behavior.

In sound waves, the wave disturbance is generally a change in air pressure that propagates periodically through the medium. These pressure variations transmit through fluids as longitudinal compressions and rarefactions. The disturbance pattern repeats periodically, characteristic of simple harmonic motion.

The elastic restoring force is produced when a medium deforms during wave passage and acts to return the medium to equilibrium. This force enables the disturbance to propagate outward from the source. Without elastic restoring force, the medium cannot support mechanical wave motion or energy transfer.