The outer most layer of the epidermis, or stratum corneum (SC) consists of cohesive corneocyte cells surrounded by a lipid rich matrix1,2. The composition and structural integrity of SC is essential for maintaining correct barrier functionality3, which prevents invasion from microorganisms and resists both mechanical forces and excessive water loss4. The capacity of personal care products to maintain or degrade skin barrier function is of great interest to skin healthcare and the cosmetic industry5. The daily application of personal care products is known to alter the mechanical properties of the SC6,7,8. For example, surfactants contained in cosmetic cleansers can cause significant increases in the elastic modulus and a build-up of drying stresses in SC, increasing the tissue's propensity to crack7,9. Glycerol contained in nearly all cosmetic moisturizers can soften SC and decrease the build-up of drying stresses8,10,11, reducing the likelihood of tissue rupture.
The method detailed in this article is capable of quantifying the dynamic drying behavior and mechanical properties of SC drying in controlled environments7,8. Previously, this technique has been demonstrated to be capable of elucidating the effect of different cosmetic products on changes in the dynamic drying behavior and mechanical properties of SC tissue. This is achieved by quantifying drying-induced shrinkage of human SC tissue adhered to a soft elastomer substrate, fitting drying displacements with a simple contractility model, and then extracting the elastic modulus and drying stress from the fitted profile. When testing of multiple SC samples is required, this method offers a more rapid alternative to uniaxial tensometry, utilizes significantly less tissue and provides more physiologically relevant drying by preventing evaporation from the sample underside.