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Collecting samples of saliva, blood, or urine for cortisol analysis has unique procedural challenges and greater participant burden, as the procedure requires multiple saliva samples, venipuncture samples, or 24-hour urine collection. Obtaining cortisol from hair samples is a simple and acceptable alternative to using saliva, serum, or urine samples1,2. Hair cortisol provides a retrospective representation of hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis function over time. Approximately 3 cm of hair collected from the scalp is equal to average cortisol release for the past 3 months1. However, researchers encounter unique challenges when attempting to collect hair samples across diverse populations. Such challenges include religious or spiritual beliefs including exposing hair (e.g., Muslim women), hair as sacred (American Indian groups), or cultural norms that connect hair to standards of beauty and self-image.
In the African American culture, particularly among women, scalp hair is a very personal and important aspect of their body image3,4. Further, historical experiences (e.g., the Tuskegee experiments) continue to foster mistrust in the research process5. Some African American folklore and cultural beliefs also suggest that the hair sample could be used in rituals that could cause harm6,7. Researchers should be aware of potential challenges that they may face in studies when African American participants are asked to provide hair samples.
In addition to issues surrounding body image, the specific techniques for collecting and handling hair samples from African Americans may differ from that of European Americans6,7. For example, African Americans may have straight, thin, curly, kinky, coarse, or a combination of these hair types, each requiring different techniques to collect and secure adequate hair samples for processing. Recent studies on samples of African American teens8, as well as multi-ethnic samples9, showed that collection of hair for cortisol level measurement was acceptable among African American participants. At present, there are no visual training procedures designed to provide researchers with the skill and cultural knowledge to collect hair samples in African Americans. The purpose of this paper is to present a culturally informed protocol to help researchers obtain adequate hair samples from African American participants. This method was developed with careful consideration of physical, psychosocial, and cultural characteristics relevant to collection of hair samples from African American adults. To date, there are no visual methods of collecting these samples, and this protocol will be the first guide that details proper hair sample collection from African American adults. To illustrate the representative results of the protocol implementation, de-identified data are presented from African Americans that participated in a community-based study on chronic stress that were aged 65 and older. Both male and female research assistants from a variety of racial backgrounds contacted potential participants from a clinic generated list and flyers. The primary investigator, who is an African American woman, spoke at community centers and senior subsidized housing apartments to older adult African Americans about the study, including a description of the hair collection methods.