The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin, at the direct interface between the human body and the external environment. Its main functions are to provide protection and hydration1. The epidermis acts as an effective physical barrier against external agents and prevents excessive water loss from the body. These skin functions mainly depend on the cellular arrangement in the outermost layers of the skin, the composition, and organization of intercellular lipids2. The epidermis is primarily composed of keratinocytes that migrate upwards to the outer side of the tissue and undergo differentiation. There are 4-5 epidermal layers that are characterized by their stage of differentiation. From the inside to the outside, the epidermal layers start from the viable epidermis, i.e., the stratum basale (SB), the stratum spinosum (SS), and the stratum granulosum (SG), to the non-viable uppermost layer, i.e., the stratum corneum (SC)3. The basal layer is mainly composed of proliferating keratin-enriched keratinocytes, which migrate through the SS upon differentiation4. During keratinocyte maturation, various changes in protein expression and structure occur. Keratinocytes adhere through the formation of desmosomal junctions5. In the SG, the generation of lamellar bodies is initiated. They consist of lipid precursors and enzymes that are crucial for the formation of the skin barrier function6. The SG is also characterized by the presence of keratohyalin granules in the cytoplasm of the keratinocytes. At the interface with the SC, the content of the lamellar bodies is extruded into the intercellular spaces and the non-polar lipids such as ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids organize into stacked lamellar lipid bilayers to form the extracellular lipid matrix7. In the SC, cells lose all cellular organelles including the nucleus, due to enzymatic degradation processes and adopt a flattened morphology. They are surrounded by a cornified envelope made of cross-linked protein layers, and are referred to as corneocytes8, 9. Desmosomal components are cross-linked to the cornified envelope to form corneodesmosomes and bind the corneocytes together. The resulting epithelium is continually renewed from stem cells, with a turnover time of approximately 5-6 weeks10. The differentiation process of the keratinocytes, which results in a fully stratified epidermis, is crucial for the formation of the barrier function of the skin11.
During wounding and inflammation, keratinocytes induce changes in adhesion molecules and surface receptors and trigger proinflammatory responses via secretion of cytokines, chemokines, and antimicrobial peptides12. The skin is not only a physical barrier against exogenous substances; it also acts as an immune sensor upon exposure to pathogens. In addition, it regulates the diffusion of several substances across its layers, such as water content to protect the human body from dehydration. The skin is also involved in the synthesis of vitamin D and has various other metabolic functions3, 13, 14.
To assess the adverse effects of exogenous substances, toxicologists have relied for decades on animal testing, but nowadays it is not the preferred approach. Besides having limited predictive capacity for human toxicity, animal models involve numerous ethical issues. The ban on animal testing in the cosmetic industry and the recommendation to follow the 3R principle (i.e., Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement) in research have led to the development of alternative test methods based on in vitro approaches15.The first in vitro skin cell models have already been described in the 90's, and an impressive development from simple human keratinocyte mono-cultures to fully differentiated epidermis and full-thickness models has been achieved16. Nowadays, skin tissue engineering has gained importance in both the pharmaceutical and dermato-cosmetic fields. In the last two decades, several companies have commercialized three-dimensional (3D) reconstructed human epidermis (RhE) that represent standardized and reproducible tools for skin-related studies. Several commercial RhE models are accepted for in vitro skin testing of chemicals according to OECD guidelines for the testing of skin irritation17, 18 (i.e., test guideline 43919) and skin corrosion20 (i.e., test guideline 43121). The in vitro test for skin sensitization22 (i.e., SENS-IS assay) is currently in the approval track and under peer-review23. There are also numerous other assays developed that utilize commercial RhE models, to evaluate phototoxicity24, to test drug formulations25, cosmetic formulations and active ingredients26, to study the skin barrier function27 and to test the biological response to environmental stressors28,29,30,31.
In addition to commercially available 3D skin models, multiple research groups have developed their own RhEs32,33,34,35,36,37. In-house RhEs offer the advantage for controlling the culture conditions according to the purpose of the study. Specifically, researchers can select the type and the source of the keratinocytes to be used for the reconstitution of their 3D epidermal model (i.e., primary vs. immortalized, neonatal vs. aged, single vs. pooled random donors, sex, ethnicity, individual living habits such as smoking, etc.). They have the possibility to vary the composition of the culture medium and incorporate growth factors, vitamins, or other compounds that can modulate the expression of target proteins or lipids. With in-house RhEs, researchers can also investigate biological responses and biomechanical properties as a function of the differentiation state of the 3D model. In addition to those intuitive parameters, there are continuous efforts to increase the complexity of 3D skin models and make them more physiologically relevant, for instance by adding other epidermal cell types (e.g. melanocytes and immune cells)38, 39, by culturing the keratinocytes on top of a fibroblast-populated collagen matrix40,41,42, and by including components of the vascular network43,44,45.
Although it is possible to tune the culture conditions according to specific needs, there are parameters that must be respected to guarantee both the quality and relevance of a RhE. To cultivate RhE tissues, normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) are seeded into specific permeable culture inserts whose porous synthetic membrane separates the wells into two compartments, i.e., the apical and basolateral compartment. The porosity of the membrane (i.e., a pore size of 0.4 µm) is such that it allows the formation of a cell monolayer in the apical compartment with no migration of cells to the basal insert side, and the feeding of the keratinocytes with essential nutrients from the culture medium contained in the basolateral compartment. At the beginning of the reconstitution process, NHEKs are cultured in submerged conditions for a few days to allow their adhesion onto the membrane. The calcium level in both compartments is increased compared to the calcium concentration used for the 2D culture of NHEKs to slow down the proliferation of cells and promote instead their differentiation46. An epidermal calcium gradient is essential to regulate the barrier formation and homeostasis47, 48. High calcium levels (i.e., up to 1.5 mM) promote the formation of intercellular junctions and modulate the formation of the cornified envelope during terminal differentiation49. Once keratinocytes form a continuous and tightly adherent monolayer on the supporting membrane, the medium from the apical compartment is removed and the culture process continues at the air-liquid interface (ALI) to stimulate stratification and establish an epidermal barrier50, 51. Specific culture conditions are crucial to obtain a fully stratified epithelium36. During the reconstitution process at ALI, the medium in the basolateral compartment is supplemented with keratinocyte growth factor (KGF), insulin, calcium, and ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid plays a major role in the formation of an appropriate SC lipid barrier, closely resembling that of the native human skin52. Keratinocytes grown in ascorbic acid-supplemented medium demonstrate a differentiated phenotype, with an enhanced number of keratohyalin granules, as well as organized intercellular lipid lamellae in the interstices of the corneocytes52. Such supplementation is essential to improve epidermal barrier function by increasing cornified envelope content and avoiding depletion of hydrophilic antioxidant stores53, 54. KGF, an important paracrine mediator of epidermal proliferation and differentiation, is used to stimulate the NHEKs55.
The main downsides of in-house RhEs include the loss of standardization between research institutions and increased labor intensity and time consumption (up to 3 weeks compared to the ready-to-use commercial models). The aim of the present paper is to address these drawbacks, setting the basis for production at a larger scale. In addition to the abovementioned advantages of in-house RhEs, the current protocol aims to reduce the intra- and inter-variability among tissues, to reduce contamination risks, and to streamline the cultivation process.
The current protocol describes a reproducible and robust method to cultivate RhEs using neonatal NHEKs. Moreover, it shows representative results of the characterization of the RhEs morphology, barrier integrity, and expression of proteins that are specific for epidermal differentiation. RhEs morphological structure was examined using hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining and transmission electron microscopy (TEM). To evaluate the barrier integrity, the transepidermal electrical resistance (TEER) and the exposure time to Triton X-100 to reduce 50% of the tissue viability (ET50) were measured. The formation of desmosomal junctions (i.e., desmoglein 1) was analyzed by immunofluorescence (IF) to evaluate keratinocyte adhesion. The formation of epidermal structural proteins (i.e., involucrin, loricrin, and filaggrin) was evaluated and detected with IF. These proteins are involved in the formation of the highly cross-linked protein envelope that surrounds SC corneocytes and as a result are important markers for late-stage epidermal differentiation56, 57. Additionally, IF was used to analyze keratin 10, a protein induced in early-stage differentiated cells in the SS58 and found inside all differentiated layers. Finally, the RhE's response to proinflammatory stimuli (i.e., lipopolysaccharide and tumor necrosis factor alpha) was investigated. The levels of interleukin 1 alpha (IL-1α) and interleukin 8 (IL-8) were measured in the cell culture media, using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays (ELISA).